Choosing The Correct Sewing Machine Needle

July 2009

15 July 2009 - Joanne Williams

Choosing the Correct Sewing Machine Needle

With all the excitement of a new sewing project, between the choosing of the fabric, the pattern and getting the right notions, many a seamstress can forget the most important of details…the sewing needle. The right sewing machine needle is the foundation of a quality stitch, which is really the foundation of the entire garment.

In the case of sewing needles, one size doesn’t fit all. There are 3 types of general purpose needles, and a myriad of specialty needles from which to choose.

General Purpose Needles

For general sewing, choose ball point machine needles for knits, as the needle is designed to move around the threads, and doesn’t pierce the thread, which causes runs. They range in size from 70/10 to 100/16. For very stretchy knits, like spandex or jersey, choose stretch machine needles.

For finely woven fabrics, choose Sharp machine needles. They have a sharper point and a narrow shaft. They are perfect for heirloom sewing, pin tucks, and topstitching. They range from 60/8 to 90/14.

Finally, choose Universal machine needles for knits or woven fabrics. They have the widest size range, from 60/8 to 120/19, and are slightly rounded at the tip for most knits, but sharp enough for woven fabrics.

Specialty Needles

There are needles that work best for many specialty threads and fabrics, including Metallic or Metafil machine needles, Denim machine needles and Embroidery needles. Embroidery machine needles have a larger eye and a specially designed scarf that protects thread from breaking. They are great to use for monofilament thread.

Leather machine needles have a wedge-shaped point that gives a slight cutting feature. For this reason they are not suitable for knits. Make sure to tie ends instead of backstitching.

You’ll want to use overlocker needles for your overlocker machine. Sergers use different needles than a straight-stitch machine.

Some Tips for Needle Success

One of the most overlooked errors is not changing the needle often enough. Most of us don’t think of it until a needle breaks, but a new needle for each major project is a must. Slight bends or nicks can negatively affect your stitch. If you work with sheers, make sure to start with a new needle to keep from getting snags and runs.

It’s best to have a large stash of needles on hand to choose from, so you’ll always be ready to start that new project when the enthusiasm is high!

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